As we try to eat lighter and get more exercise during the spring and summer months, the same goes for our choice in wines. Those soul-warming, higher-alcohol varieties – especially reds – will now stay cellared, and lighter, fragrant, soft and refreshing alternatives will soon have their corks popped.
Here’s a rundown of some of my personal favourite spring and summer wine selections, to accompany not only the first summer BBQs and pool parties, but to also brilliantly pair with simple recipes and dinner table conversation.
Riesling rules
I thoroughly enjoy Riesling, so it is shocking to me to witness this grape’s unpopularity among consumers at large while it remains among the top choice of wine for connoisseurs, sommeliers and the like. Rightly so – it is an endlessly versatile wine considering the number of styles and food-matching options, going from light, bone dry and mineral to opulent, full and semi-sweet, to luscious and rich Eiswein (Icewine). The ultimate and perhaps ideal spring and summer wine, many Rieslings are lower in alcohol, crisp and tasty, and relatively inexpensive. Germany produces the world’s finest examples – labels can get a bit complicated – but just ask a product consultant and indicate your preference. For drier or sweeter versions, look for ones from the Mosel, Rheingau and Reinhessen regions. France’s Alsace region produces outstanding Riesling, in a fuller, weightier style. As for local, Riesling from the Niagara Peninsula can rival the German varieties quality-wise and are produced in almost every style, from sparkling to Icewine.
Go for Gamay
Gamay is the main grape in Beaujolais, originating from the southernmost tip of Burgundy, France. Gamay was originally grown in volcanic and iron-rich soils, producing a lighter weight and fragrant, silky and delicious red wine. Due to a commonly adopted winemaking tactic called carbonic maceration, it develops intriguing, lively, vinous and bubble-gummy aromas. These wines should be served slightly chilled, capitalizing on their freshness and fragrance, and are the utmost compatible choices for spring and summer entertaining. Excellent examples of Gamay are made across Ontario. For further exploration, a friend and colleague of mine has started a social media craze regarding this darling grape – next time you drink a Gamay use the Twitter hashtag #goGamaygo.
Let’s be Franc
Cabernet Sauvignon may be a bit too full and tannic, potent and alcoholic for warm season consumption, but its sister grape, Cabernet Franc is lighter and gentler, fresher and more moderate alcohol-wise. It is a grape that found its headquarters in the beautiful Loire valley of France, but is grown and thriving successfully in a few other similarly cool climate areas of the New World, such as the Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County in Ontario. When fully ripened, this grape is capable of producing outstanding wines with an exotic array of nuances – floral and spicy, light-to-medium bodied with firm acidity, smooth tannins and low-to-medium alcohol levels – just perfect for your next camping or cottage adventure.
Pop some bubbly
Let’s not forget to drink good Champagne and sparkling wine, especially those created by small growers. Among the “sparkling” varieties, some classic (using the same grapes and methods of making as Champagne) and some less classic, good sparkling wines make us happy and are season-less. I have tasted many top-notch classic-style bubblies originating from right here in our cool climate backyards – grapes (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, mostly) grown in limestone and boasting Champagne-like minerality, complexity and toasty character.
Rosé all the way
I am an advocate of pink wines – rosés – especially the dry ones, with none, or not much residual sugar. They are season-less and the epiphany of food friendliness. Plenty of lovely rosato comes from northern Italy’s lesser known regions, available on the wine lists of the Terroni group of restaurants. I enjoy nothing more than holding court on the terrazza of their Rosedale location in Toronto and sipping some on sunny summer afternoons. Other tasty options are from the Tavel area of the southern Rhône, and local Ontario succulent and fresh pinks.
On a closing note, drinking slightly chilled fino Sherry, or good junmai ginjo sake are among my favourite spring and summer spare-time “activities.”
About the author:
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo is a hospitality consultant offering wine sourcing and staff training services to restaurants. He is also the sommelier at the Trump International Hotel & Tower. Check out his website www.zszabo.com or follow him on Twitter @zoltanszabo. If you’d like to find out more about the wines mentioned above, email Zoltan at [email protected].
